how can we control puckering at sleeve in seam ?

kishore, triburg consultants pvt.ltd, q.a, kishorechowdary19@gmail.com

Answered by : Shlok Hariramani,  Assistant Editor,  StitchWorld,  shariramani@stitchworld.net

I read your Q as "inseam" (although two separate words in your Q).

Firstly without having the sample or knowing the material specification (fabric/thread/needle) or process specification (machine, feed type, seam type) is is extremely difficult to answer your query.

Please go by the process of elimination of causes (Read 'puckerfree seams' by StitchWorld publication). I assume cause will be either due to structural jamming (change to finer thread and needle) or ply slippage (use puller feed with FOA)...You may also try using fusible tape inside seam and pressing using crosslinking press.

Answered by : A K Verma,  AF,  OCF,  vermaakv2009@gmail.com

1 use correct count of sewing thread.
2 Armhole seam length at sleeve joint of front and back body pannel should equal to that of sleeve pannel.
3 Use pre-shrink or zero-zero finished fabric.
4 Armhole seam of front and back body pannel should coinside with sleeve pannel.